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Raptor
Sprints McGee


Joined: 04 Jan 2004
Posts: 5568
Location: The Wired

PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 9:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vinsanity

You can do a reset via email. It doesn't store in a encryption that can be reversed. It looks like you use a yahoo address for registration.

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Vin Sanity
Mad Mechanic


Joined: 09 Jan 2004
Posts: 1104
Location: Awash in a sea of baby shit and BMW parts

PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 10:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Was talking to John today, and realised I never really posted a build list. So with no further delay, and without parts numbers until I do this on my laptop instead of phone:

-Pre 2003 (valve cover is old style with points to bolt coil packs down) M54B25 with 95,xxx miles
-Valve cover gasket (preventative maintenance, inspection, and I have to swap valve covers from the original engine)
-Oil pan gasket
-Rear main seal
-LUK upgraded OEM style clutch kit w/bearrings
-Oil filter housing mount gasket
-Water pump and gasket
-New belts and tensioners
-Engine mounts
-Transmission mounts
-Transmission to drive shaft Guibo and bolts
-Cheap but decent looking EBay headers
-Spark plugs (NGK platinum)

I was going to get a modified lock valve (Clutch Delay Valve [CDV]), but they are 95 bucks from Zeckhausen and seem to be pointless, as most forum posters have just been deleting the valve all together with good results. So I will do likewise.

Not related to the swap, but the front brakes were absolute crap:
-Stoptech upgraded and powder coated calipers (Reman) and hardware
-Stoptech slotted rotors
-Stoptech ceramic pads
-Stainless brake lines
-New wear sensor

I'm thinking off the top of my head so I may have forgotten something. Going to work on this some more on Sunday

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Raptor
Sprints McGee


Joined: 04 Jan 2004
Posts: 5568
Location: The Wired

PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What's the benefit of the modified lock valve? I'm used to just seeing the delete too.
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Marcus Brody
The Dog


Joined: 09 Jan 2004
Posts: 10601
Location: floating bumpercar

PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 12:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Every single one I've ever seen has just been an expensive delete. It's just the regular lock valve without the moving bits inside.

Unless you're a low-confidence manual driver, there's no real reason not to just delete.
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Vin Sanity
Mad Mechanic


Joined: 09 Jan 2004
Posts: 1104
Location: Awash in a sea of baby shit and BMW parts

PostPosted: Sun Oct 05, 2014 12:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

John, think of the lock valve as the dampener on a record needle. You let off the clutch pedal, and the clutch engages slightly slower to avoid driveline shudder, if you have legs that don't work and no brain. What it does instead, like the case of my 335 and angry shifting, is delight you with high rpm clutch smoke. One pre-e90s the expensive hollowed out lock valve isn't necessary, since the fittings are the same, and you just remove and thread back together. On my e93, the valve is a plastic snap-tite style fitting, so I opted to buy a modified valve. However, the one for the e90 is 20 bucks as opposed to 100 for everything else.
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Raptor
Sprints McGee


Joined: 04 Jan 2004
Posts: 5568
Location: The Wired

PostPosted: Sun Oct 05, 2014 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright. I thought there was some difference between those and the clutch delay valves; it sound like it's the same thing with a new name. Bmw just designed it so you can't just put put the line right into the slave on some cars and you need an empty value.
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Vin Sanity
Mad Mechanic


Joined: 09 Jan 2004
Posts: 1104
Location: Awash in a sea of baby shit and BMW parts

PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2014 4:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Precisely. Bmw part name is Lock Valve, normal humans call it CDV. Either way, it's gonna get gone from both of my 3ers.
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Vin Sanity
Mad Mechanic


Joined: 09 Jan 2004
Posts: 1104
Location: Awash in a sea of baby shit and BMW parts

PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2015 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On Saturday I spent many hours taking accessories and salvagable pieces off of the blown engine. I had to clean the shiny stripper dust that used to be parts of my engine out of the oil filter housing. I may take it back off of the new long block and clean it again since I'm paranoid. I pulled the oil pan off of the old engine, and it was full of chunks of engine block, rod bearing shards, bolts, and other unhealthy pieces. The oil pickup is packed full of more schrapnel. The piston is still upright and in the cylinder, and I have no idea if it made contact with the head (I hope not because id at least like to salvage that,) but I have a feeling it did. I got to a stopping point when I realized I didn't have a seal press to install my new rear main seal, so I started on my brake project, and got the passenger side front braided line installed as well as the new caliper, pads, and drilled and slotted rotor. So at least that side is no longer completely fucked and seized...

More to come this weekend I'm sure. Plus I have taken more pics qme need to post them all yet...

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Raptor
Sprints McGee


Joined: 04 Jan 2004
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2015 9:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've seen some tricks with half a soda bottle that seem like they could work pretty well. The last one on my cars wasn't leaking, so I left it alone, so I can't comment on how it works out in practice.
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Vin Sanity
Mad Mechanic


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Location: Awash in a sea of baby shit and BMW parts

PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2015 10:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, this engine only has 95k miles but I don't trust the seals. So it's getting a new oil pan and main seal. Now that I did a look online it doesn't look like my kit will need a seal press. The seal is already in a new frame, and it has an alignment plastic piece that apparently will keep the seal from catching. So yeah I should have everything assembled and ready to go back in soon...
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Marcus Brody
The Dog


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 12:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't remember needing anything special to do the rear main on the S50, but it's been a while now.
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Vin Sanity
Mad Mechanic


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Location: Awash in a sea of baby shit and BMW parts

PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After reading further into it, if I have the seal kit that comes in the aluminum frame, and not just the round seal, I don't need the press. The manual assumes that only the seal is replaced. So I shouldn't have an issue. I just didn't feel like fucking up a brand new 100$ part...
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Vin Sanity
Mad Mechanic


Joined: 09 Jan 2004
Posts: 1104
Location: Awash in a sea of baby shit and BMW parts

PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2015 3:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This should be the big weekend, folks. I forgot to buy gasket sealant for the oil pan, otherwise I would have made more progress last week. But I'm hoping to have the drive line back into the car and possibly even running. We will see if I am ambitious but rubbish..
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Marcus Brody
The Dog


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PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2015 5:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Meh, if I can do it without screwing it up, you can.
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Raptor
Sprints McGee


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PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2015 10:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool. I'm glad to hear it's getting close.
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